Showing posts with label Tehran. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tehran. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Paperback Online

The print version of Voluntary Nomads is available on Amazon. Digital version to be released soon.


As you can see, I'm doing a happy dance to see Voluntary Nomads published! The e-book should be ready within ten days.

In case you're waiting for the digital version, here's an excerpt from Chapter 6 to keep you entertained:

Tabriz
   In an effort to pry me out of my end-of-Tehran-honeymoon funk, Fred suggested that we volunteer to make the non-pro courier run to Tabriz. The city of Tabriz, the fourth largest city in Iran and a commercial, industrial, and transportation center, had an American consular office that was a one-person outpost. For such a small operation, the embassy recruited volunteers to carry the diplomatic pouch, and designated them "non-pro couriers." Fred hadn't taken a turn because he didn't want to leave the rest of us home alone. After we made friends with the Goffs, though, a couple of months before the Caravanserai trip, we hatched a plan to trade off caring for each other's children occasionally. That gave us the option of evenings out, and, if all went well, an overnight trip. I called Norma for her approval and Fred requested the courier run to Tabriz.
   The trip involved flying to Tabriz, delivering the pouch, spending the night at a hotel, and returning to Tehran the next afternoon. I had a few moments of terror when I thought about the distance between my babies and me, but Norma Goff's unfaltering calm quieted my fears. Fred and I took off as excited as a bride and groom embarking on a real honeymoon.
   Couriers, even the non-pro, flew first class so they could get off the plane quickly and secure the pouches. First class status also enhanced our honeymoon atmosphere. Once we arrived in Tabriz, an official car met us at the air terminal and took us to the consular office where we delivered the pouch. Mr. Ex, the consular officer, suggested sightseeing possibilities and several restaurants that we might enjoy for our evening meal. He invited us to lunch at his home the following day.
   After checking into our hotel, we set out to see the city. We intended to take in all the sights recommended by Mr. Ex, but we spent most of the day wandering in the extensive covered bazaar, admiring the amazing variety of beautiful and precious things for sale. When we stopped at a tea stall for refreshments, a group of older men invited Fred to share their hookah (galyan in Farsi). As the smoke from flavored tobacco leaves burbled through the water pipe, I watched my husband blend into the exotic surroundings and become a romantic figure of mystery and intrigue. It's possible I enjoyed the experience more than he did, struggling as he was to stifle a coughing fit from the harshness of the tobacco.
   I don't remember what we ate that night, but I do remember our conversation at dinner. Try as we might to find another subject, we kept coming back to what was foremost on both our minds – yep, our kiddos. We spent the whole evening talking about them, how wonderful and clever they were, and how much we missed them.
   The next day we arrived at Ex's home unfashionably early, revealing our eagerness to get home. Ex waxed eloquent through the appetizer, soup, main course, salad, dessert and coffee. He showed off his broad knowledge of all things Iranian and demonstrated his fluency in Farsi. I sneaked peeks at my watch as time plodded on. Shortly after the last bite of dessert, time sped up as I realized we needed to leave for the airport soon. I mentioned the time to Ex, and he said, "Don't worry, my driver is ready and waiting, you won't miss your flight, if that's what you're thinking." He changed the subject to his favorite, carpets, and off he went on a never-ending monologue.
   As Ex droned on, I stopped sneaking peeks and began to make exaggerated time-checks. Finally, I stood up and made a direct request to leave for the airport. Fred looked surprised but didn't object. Ex's face showed his exasperation, but he did let us go. When we arrived at the airport, boarding had already completed and we had to scurry across the tarmac in order to make our flight with zero time to spare.
   Thirty-some years later, I'm still annoyed with Mr. Ex. When I heard that he had been taken hostage at the embassy during the long siege, I pondered the mysterious workings of karma. One of the popular inside stories of that time described Ex as a constant irritant to his captors. He allegedly harassed them with scathing insults and angered them with frequent escape attempts. We heard that the hostage takers hated him so much they stopped the prisoners' bus on the way to the release point, simply to give Ex one last beating.
   Back home in Tehran we reunited with our kids and learned that they had had their own excitement during our absence. After dinner the night before our return, Dakota went to the bathroom by himself. When Norma checked on him a few minutes later, she discovered he had locked the door and couldn't get out. He started to cry. Norma used her best powers of persuasion to get him to calm down. The old-fashioned locks used a large key, the type we used to call a skeleton key, and Norma convinced him to pull the key out of the lock and slide it under the door toward her. She could then unlock the door from her side and free the prisoner. The experience taught Dakota something about locks and keys and foreshadowed an adventure to come years later in another country. ###

   Find Voluntary Nomads on Amazon.




Sunday, October 9, 2011

He's Only a Little Boy

I'm running around the house waving my UPS tracking number. I can't be still even though I know the delivery won't happen until Tuesday afternoon. Can you guess what I'll be doing Tuesday night?

In case you're having a lazy Sunday with time to do a little reading, here's an excerpt from Chapter 5:



He's Only a Little Boy
Thanks to Fred's mom, Dakota and Tina had state-of-the-art snowsuits, perfect for Tehran's spectacular snow. When we wanted to play outdoors, I had to hurry to suit them up as quickly as I could. If I dawdled, the first one dressed got sweaty before the second zipper zipped. Bundled up in snowsuits, boots, mittens, hats, and hoods, they could barely walk and probably couldn't get up if they fell. I carried Tina and held Dakota's hand as we slip-slid down the steep half-flight of stairs leading from the balcony to our garden.

"Let's build a snow man." I packed a handful of snow into a ball and showed the kids how to roll it along to accumulate more snow.

"Wow. What a big ball you made. That can be the snowman's body."

We rolled a medium-sized ball for the torso and a smaller ball for the head. My chartreuse straw gardening hat sat on top. Dakota chose square blue Lego pieces for eyes and a green one for the nose. Tina picked out five small rectangular red pieces and I helped her form a smiling mouth.

I stepped back to admire our work. "Isn't that the best snowman in all the world? Hold on a second, I'm gonna run in the house and get the camera."

In less than two minutes I came back, ready to immortalize Mr. Snowman on film. But Mr. Snowman lay in a heap. Dakota held his red plastic baseball bat in a perfect home run follow-through, just the way I had taught him.

"I don't believe it! Young man, you better go to your room and think about what you have just done." Vapor puffed out of my mouth with every word. I imagined steam pouring out of my nose and ears.
Two-year-old Tina tugged at my pants leg. I looked down at her earnest little face.

"But, Mommy," she spoke softly in a soothing and reasonable voice, "he's only a little boy." ###


Note: Although Dakota did not grow up to be either a baseball hall-of-famer or a professional snow-man-deconstructionist, Tina did become a counselor and is now the owner of a thriving private practice.


Next time - an excerpt from Chapter 6 and news about availability of Voluntary Nomads.




Saturday, October 1, 2011

The Egg

Iran 1975
Tina, Nancy, and Dakota

From Part Two: Iran Odysseys --

Our weekdays settled into a comfortable routine of work for Fred, pre-school for the kids, Farsi lessons and household chores for me. I looked forward to the weekends when we could take short trips to explore Tehran and the surrounding countryside. One sunny autumn day we escaped from the hubbub of the frenetic city and made our way out of town with no planned destination.
After an hour or so on a narrow, winding road Fred spotted a convenient place to pull over and park on the bank of a brook. Dakota and Tina scrambled out of the car and ran to the water's edge. They threw rocks and sticks into the stream and chased alongside the sticks that floated with the current. The four of us climbed the smooth gray boulders and rock-hopped back and forth like mountain goats. Playing in the fresh air and sunshine soothed our country-bred souls.
"All this exercise makes me hungry." I've always been one of those people who want to eat every two or three hours.
"Me too," agreed Fred. "Let's drive back to that little café we saw on the way up."
"Yay!" Dakota and Tina cheered and clapped their sandy hands.
The small mud-brick building crouched in the middle of a packed-earth yard. Faded blue paint peeled here and there on the scarred and gouged walls. Three square wooden tables with rusty folding chairs sat vacant in the yard. A rickety bicycle leaned against the wall. Five red hens, exactly like our Rhode Island Reds back home, pecked in the dirt, giving wide berth to a scruffy brown dog napping in the sun.
Hand in hand, we walked toward the building. A short, thin man wearing an apron came out and swung one arm wide with a slight bow. We chose a table and sat down. The waiter greeted us and we returned his greeting.
"Salaam aleikum."
"Wa aleikum salaam."
"Chehar chello kebab." I practiced my primitive Farsi and ordered a national favorite dish made of chunks of savory charcoal-roasted mutton, steaming buttery white rice, and bold raw onion. I didn't ask Dakota and Tina what they wanted because I knew. Since the first time they tried it, they never wanted anything at a restaurant but chello kebab.
The waiter returned to the building, presumably to the kitchen. Wisps of smoke drifted from the chimney. The kids played with their forks and tablespoons as we waited for our food.
With no warning a strange choreography began. The waiter ambled toward us carrying four drinks. As we turned to watch the waiter approach, one of the red hens fluttered up, hunkered down right in the middle of our table, and startled us with a confident cackle. Four pairs of eyes opened wider and wider. In one fluid motion the waiter served our drinks, shooed the hen away, and plucked up her glistening wet brown egg, slipping it into his wide apron pocket.
Dakota started to cry. Tina wrapped her arms around my neck.
"What's wrong, Bubba? Did the chicken scare you?" I asked.
"No! That man took my egg! I want my egg!"
I held back a laugh. To Dakota, this was a serious offense. He stuck to his own logic. The egg appeared on his table: therefore the egg was his. My explanation that the egg belonged to the restaurant because the chicken belonged to the restaurant did not appeal to him in the least.
Fred stood up to his full 5 feet 8 inches of Daddy-Hero height. He snapped to attention and executed a perfect military about-face and marched into the café. A few minutes later he returned with his hands behind his back.
"Which hand?" he asked Dakota.
Dakota knew how to retrieve a treat from Daddy. He tapped Fred's left elbow. Fred brought his left hand out and opened it.
"My egg!" A delighted boy forgot his tears.
"Which hand?" Fred asked Tina.
Tina tapped the other elbow.
"My egg!" She beamed at Fred and cradled her egg in both hands.

(Voluntary Nomads to be released November 2011)


Wednesday, September 28, 2011

The New Beirut

Tina and Nancy in New Mexico 1974

Voluntary Nomads excerpt "The New Beirut" comes from Chapter 1 of Part One: New Mexico Genesis:

The call came in November 1974, six months after Fred submitted his application, even though it seemed like at least a year had gone by. Fred mouthed the words "State Department" and held the phone up so I could hear too. 

"Congratulations, your application for the position of Communications and Records Officer has been approved and you are assigned to Tehran, Iran." 

Fred's polite response didn't register with me. The expression on his face asked, "What did she say?" 

The woman's voice chirped with good cheer. "Tehran is a marvelous first assignment. You might not know that Beirut used to be considered the Paris of the Middle East, but since the threat of civil war escalated in Lebanon, everyone has been calling Tehran the new Beirut. I've heard that caviar is so plentiful, you'll be spreading it on bread like peanut butter." 

Tehran-Beirut-Paris-Lebanese civil war-Iranian caviar. It was too much to absorb all at once. Fred grabbed my hands and whirled me around the living room in a crazy victory dance. We flopped down on the sway-backed sofa and Fred picked up our tattered National Geographic World Atlas from the coffee table. He opened it to the map of Iran and poked the circled star symbol indicating the capital, Tehran. 

"There it is. That's where we're going -- where we'll be for the next two years." 

Of course our trip didn't follow a straight line. No, our journey from Los Lunas, New Mexico to Tehran, Iran included some hurdles, a couple of detours and several stops along the way. 

A few days after the phone call announcing Fred's assignment we received a hefty packet in the mail giving us guidance on the mechanics of becoming a Foreign Service family. Once we sorted out our belongings into sea freight, airfreight, and storage categories, we had to decide how to get to Washington, DC for Fred's eight-week orientation and training course. We could fly or we could drive. Both choices had advantages and disadvantages, but we chose to drive, in order to have our own car in Washington rather than a rental. With the help of our parents we financed a shiny black 1967 Volkswagen beetle. We loved our new car. It was an incredible improvement over the rattle-trap Plymouth. 

On departure day, Fred folded down the back seat of the VW and I spread out two well-worn flannel-lined sleeping bags. First in, our son Dakota, aged 20 months, followed by our daughter Tina, not quite one year old. They babbled, cooed, gnawed on their teething toys, and took frequent naps. The highway hum and car motion lulled them into a relaxed state that allowed Fred and me to have wonderful long conversations. When Tina wanted to nurse, I swung her into the front seat with me. Dakota snacked on unfiltered apple juice and graham crackers in the backseat play-lounge. Even though a road trip with two toddlers might not be everybody's ideal, it worked for us, and the ease of our maiden voyage foretold the spirit of twenty-odd years of travel to come. 

Somewhere in East Texas, early in the morning of the third travel day, with the rising sun bright in our eyes, I leaned back to see if the glare bothered the babies. They were fine, but I noticed a small empty space on the sleeping bag. For the past hour I'd had that nagging feeling that I'd forgotten something, and now I knew what it was. 

"Oh, dammit, Fred, you have to pull over." 

"What's wrong?" 

"I don't see Baby-Kinsey. You know how Dakota is about his Baby-Kinsey." 

Fred stopped the car on the shoulder and we searched for Dakota's lovey, a baby pillow covered in the soft birds-eye diaper material that he always rubbed across his lips when he was sleepy. I went through everything in the back seat while Fred looked in the suitcases. 

"We must have left her in the motel room," I said. "We have to go back." 

"Are you sure? We'll have to backtrack eighty miles or more." 

Fred closed his eyes for a second, then looked at Dakota and smiled. I nodded. We piled back in the car and Fred made a U-turn for the rescue of Baby Kinsey.